SET-UP
| Installation |
When you purchase The Engine Heater the quick disconnects and dust caps
(everything you need) comes with it.
The best way, (and the most economical way) to hook-up the heater is to use
the supplied quick disconnects by removing the freeze plugs (drain plugs)
for each side of your engine block.
Most engines already have these screw-in plugs in the block. Some cast iron
blocks have pressed in plugs that you could pop out and tap, or you could
drill & tap a 3/8" pipe thread. If your tapped hole is not 3/8 NPT you will have
to get an adapter to reduce to 3/8 NPT.
The male coupler is installed in your block, available in aluminum, (with a
dust cover), and the female coupler is on the hose.
Quick disconnect in block Hose routed to remote
(everything you need) comes with it.
The best way, (and the most economical way) to hook-up the heater is to use
the supplied quick disconnects by removing the freeze plugs (drain plugs)
for each side of your engine block.
Most engines already have these screw-in plugs in the block. Some cast iron
blocks have pressed in plugs that you could pop out and tap, or you could
drill & tap a 3/8" pipe thread. If your tapped hole is not 3/8 NPT you will have
to get an adapter to reduce to 3/8 NPT.
The male coupler is installed in your block, available in aluminum, (with a
dust cover), and the female coupler is on the hose.
Quick disconnect in block Hose routed to remote
If your block doesn't have the screw-in freeze plugs, don't panic, the heater
can also be hooked up with a one way check valve that installs in your lower
radiator hose (so you don't have to tap holes in your block).
Aluminium double butterfly lower radiator
valves are available in 1" (for mini sprints)
1 1/2" (for sprint cars & midgets) and 1 3/4"
(late models). Quick disconnect nipples that
come with any heater mount (with dust caps)
to valve and is the preferred method for
hooking up heater to your car.
This is a valve made up with clear
plastic tubing to show the valve.
Another option is a remote hook up presently used
by our race team (which we really like) This set-up
will work with hose's routed to the tapped holes in
the block (what we have) or to a lower radiator valve.
Bracket available for $40.00 to fit Maxim or ? (includes
hose barb fittings)
Just use your imagination - If you come up with a better (or cheaper)
idea to hook up your heater, call or e-mail us, we're always open for
suggestions and looking to save you money.
The Engine Heater will heat up your engine from dead cold, It will heat up a
midget in about 30-45 minutes and about twice that long for a sprint car (twice
the metal to heat up). But it's at it's best maintaining the heat in the engine
after slow warm ups or hot laps. When you go out on the track to race whether
it's qualifying, the heat, the dash, or the feature, your engine is screaming for
mercy the first few laps because it's not warmed up yet.
Engine builders claim your engine gains 1 HP for each degree of heat. So...
you can calculate 120 degrees to 180 degrees --- 60 HP difference.
The heater comes to you full of water, just as your engine is always full of
water, so there's no air bubbles blown in your engine. When you disconnect
the hoses the heater stays full and your engine stays full. Any air bubbles end
up in the top of your radiator and your radiator cap is the safety valve should
for some reason the water would get too hot.
The Engine Heater comes with a 2,000 watt element but in some cases we
recommend a 1,500 watt element. (Like for a mini sprint, or if your generator is
rated at under 5,000 watts and it's also running trailer lights, air compressor,
grooving iron, etc. The 1,500w will take just a little longer to heat up from
"cold" but will maintain Temp the same as the 2,000w.
The "Down Under" heater is 240v 50hz with a 2,500 watt heating element and
accepts a local extension cord.
Every heater is tested before shipping for leaks, pump, and heater operation,
so you can be assured your heater will perform properly when you get to the
track.
The deluxe heater & the "down under" heater comes with a remote adjustable
thermostat and an industrial pressure gauge, while the basic "economy"
heater has a temp gauge only, and will heat your engine up to 180-200 deg
without a thermostat.
Your engine will thank you.
can also be hooked up with a one way check valve that installs in your lower
radiator hose (so you don't have to tap holes in your block).
Aluminium double butterfly lower radiator
valves are available in 1" (for mini sprints)
1 1/2" (for sprint cars & midgets) and 1 3/4"
(late models). Quick disconnect nipples that
come with any heater mount (with dust caps)
to valve and is the preferred method for
hooking up heater to your car.
This is a valve made up with clear
plastic tubing to show the valve.
Another option is a remote hook up presently used
by our race team (which we really like) This set-up
will work with hose's routed to the tapped holes in
the block (what we have) or to a lower radiator valve.
Bracket available for $40.00 to fit Maxim or ? (includes
hose barb fittings)
Just use your imagination - If you come up with a better (or cheaper)
idea to hook up your heater, call or e-mail us, we're always open for
suggestions and looking to save you money.
The Engine Heater will heat up your engine from dead cold, It will heat up a
midget in about 30-45 minutes and about twice that long for a sprint car (twice
the metal to heat up). But it's at it's best maintaining the heat in the engine
after slow warm ups or hot laps. When you go out on the track to race whether
it's qualifying, the heat, the dash, or the feature, your engine is screaming for
mercy the first few laps because it's not warmed up yet.
Engine builders claim your engine gains 1 HP for each degree of heat. So...
you can calculate 120 degrees to 180 degrees --- 60 HP difference.
The heater comes to you full of water, just as your engine is always full of
water, so there's no air bubbles blown in your engine. When you disconnect
the hoses the heater stays full and your engine stays full. Any air bubbles end
up in the top of your radiator and your radiator cap is the safety valve should
for some reason the water would get too hot.
The Engine Heater comes with a 2,000 watt element but in some cases we
recommend a 1,500 watt element. (Like for a mini sprint, or if your generator is
rated at under 5,000 watts and it's also running trailer lights, air compressor,
grooving iron, etc. The 1,500w will take just a little longer to heat up from
"cold" but will maintain Temp the same as the 2,000w.
The "Down Under" heater is 240v 50hz with a 2,500 watt heating element and
accepts a local extension cord.
Every heater is tested before shipping for leaks, pump, and heater operation,
so you can be assured your heater will perform properly when you get to the
track.
The deluxe heater & the "down under" heater comes with a remote adjustable
thermostat and an industrial pressure gauge, while the basic "economy"
heater has a temp gauge only, and will heat your engine up to 180-200 deg
without a thermostat.
Your engine will thank you.
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| Hooked up to remote then routed to each side of block from remote |
